Originally published on Oct 21, 2013 – Updated Jan 24th 2014
Effective January 2014, NHRA will then require an approved secondary collector restraint for all headers that have removable collectors. Here is a snap-shot of the rule change:
You can read the rule change on page 18 at NHRA at:
Paul did very well this past Saturday, and grabbed the cash at the 2nd of 5 Winter Practice Tree Races being hosted by Pacific Raceways. There are three more “races” remaining in the winter series and you can see the specifics on PR’s website here.
For results from the 2nd “race,” PR has a report here. – Roger
It’s time to let your classic car rest until next spring, and storing it correctly means less work getting it ready next season. Follow these suggestions, and it’ll be ready to drive to next year’s shows with just a little effort.
Decide – Indoors or Out
Indoor storage is better. It gives you control over temperature and protects your vehicle from rain and snow. There’s a little more protection from animals and vandalism inside, but it can happen there, too. Preparing your car for storage indoors or outdoors is the same, except for the cover. If outdoors, you’ll want a heavy outdoor cover to protect the car from wind damage, rain and UV rays. Indoor covers are lighter and not weatherproof.
Clean It
Clean your car thoroughly, inside and out. Spots and stains left for several months will be much harder to remove. Vacuum the car thoroughly, including the floor mats, carpet and any carpet in the trunk. Clean any dirt or mud from the wheels and under the fenders. Your goal is to not leave anything that might corrode the car’s finish. Then give the car a good wax job.
Manage the Fluids
Change the oil and filter so it’s fresh and full. Fill the gas tank to prevent moisture from building up. Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. This prevents the gas from breaking down and damaging the fuel line and engine. Check and top off all of the other fluids such as power steering, transmission, brakes and radiator.
Remove the spark plugs and coat each cylinder housing with oil. This will prevent corrosion and keep the spark plugs from seizing in the engine. Wipe down all of the spark plug wires, including the contacts.
Battery Prep
Disconnect the negative side of the battery. Clean off any buildup on the battery posts. If left in storage for several months, the battery may drain, requiring you to charge it up fully before you start the car. An alternative is to use a trickle charge on the battery that will keep it charged throughout the storage. This way, your battery is ready to go next season.
Tires and Wheels
As Pat Gross, a Motor Week master technician, suggests in a video below, jack up the car and remove the wheels and tires while in storage. This takes the pressure off of the tires so a flat spot doesn’t form. You could ruin an expensive set of tires if the car is left on the ground.
Don’t leave the parking brake on while the car is in storage. The brake pads could fuse to the rotors, requiring some serious brake work.
Other Preparations
Remove the wiper blades so they don’t become stuck to the windshield. Plug up the air intakes and exhaust pipe to prevent critters from getting in the car. Steel wool can be used, since animals won’t take it for nesting material.
Car Insurance
Don’t be tempted to drop your car insurance or reduce the coverage while the car is in storage. A lapse in coverage may make it harder to get next year. You still run the risk of damage to the car, especially if stored outdoors. But damage indoors could happen if a sudden snow, wind or ice storm causes the roof to collapse on your car. AARP The Hartford offers classic car insurance in 12-month blocks, so your rate is locked in for a full year.
Before You Say Goodbye
Check that the car is secure on the jacks and the cover is tightly fastened around the car. Remove any solvents or flammable materials from around the car. Doors to the enclosure should be locked and any security systems enabled.
About the author: Peter Galvin
Pete is a retired auto mechanic who’s making a second career out of blogging.
Posted inDiscussions|Comments Off on How to Properly Store Your Classic Car for Winter
The problems with sending out e-mail notifications continues. Despite my best efforts and after considerable personal expense, getting e-mail notifications to AOL users has become virtually impossible, even through a third-party paid e-mail service which worked until mid-October 2013.
Therefore check on our site weekly for updates you may have missed.
Merry Christmas!
Roger
Our ’57 at Puyallup Raceway in the early 70’s in F/MP. 292 c.i. (283 +.060″), T-10 4-speed, Olds/Pontiac rear, 10″ slicks, 3600# pressure plate with rag disc.
After September 2026, I will likely no longer be hosting our entire website. This includes military news, the Silver Spur sites, nor our racing pages. After 27-years it will be time to close it all down. Be well. – Roger
Pam, U.S. Navy – YN2/E5
CINCPAC Joint Command
Vietnam-Era Veteran Operation Homecoming
Total Visitors:
4069709
Total Visitors
Visitors Today:
1208
Visitors Today
Site Search:
Engine Porn - Updated January 29, 2023
2025 Photo Gallery
2024 Photo Gallery
2023 Photo Gallery
2022 Photo Gallery
2021 Photo Gallery
2020 Photo Gallery
2019 Photo Gallery
2018 Photo Gallery
2017 Photo Gallery
The Early Years
We wish to acknowledge the invaluable photo contributions by the following talented individuals that make our photo galleries possible: Candy Caldwell, Jim Doyle, Robert Fedyk, Mike Gardner, Tony Hutchison, Gary McMillian, DataMutz, Larry Pfister, ProStreet Photography, Dave Stoltz, Mike Ward, Gary Wells, Troy Williams (Purple Nurple) and our family, Chris, Pam & Roger Young